"Knowledge is not achieved until it is shared"

Thomas Jefferson

By now, you certainly have heard of AHA's, BHA's, Peels, Anti-Oxidants and an assortment of other "age defying" products.  But, do you understand what they are and how they work?  Are you familiar with the difference between "cosmeceutical" and "over the counter" skincare products?  I doubt you think about this as much as that last slice of chocolate cake you've hidden in the kitchen; but still, the following information could come in handy the next time you're buying skincare products.

• Prescriptive:  These products require a doctor's prescription.  They are mostly used in the fight against acne, such as Accutane and Tetracycline. 

• Cosmeceutical:  These products are generally available through Doctors and Licensed Aestheticians (these are the products that I offer).  Cosmeceutical products contain "pharmaceutical" ingredients, resulting in a very active product.  They are regulated by the FDA.  This means the ingredients must be listed on the product and the product must be manufactured in a FDA approved laboratory.  The FDA monitors the product to insure the quality and quantity listed is correct.  In other words, "What you see is what you get".  The AHA's in these products are normally NON-buffered with a lower PH level which enables the product to penetrate to the INNER layer of skin (dermis); not just the outer layer (epidermis).

• Over the Counter (OTC):  These products are available "over the counter" at department stores, etc.  They are NOT regulated by the FDA; therefore, do not have to meet as strict of standards.  The AHA's are generally BUFFERED with a much HIGHER  PH, resulting in weaker activity of the product. 

AHA's/Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are derived from natural products with the capacity to penetrate to the dermis layer of skin (the inner layer).  Because of this capability, they are able to improve the texture of the skin, improve moisture retention and block free radicals(which can cause skin cancers, aging and sunburn).  They assist in repairing sun related damage such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles through cell renewal.  They affect "living tissue" rather than just the stratum corneum (dead cells).

• Glycolic Acid (Hydroxyacetic Acid) is a non-toxic substance extracted from fermented sugar cane.  It has the smallest molecular weight of any AHA and a 2 carbon  chain, enabling it to penetrate deeper than any other AHA.

• Lactic Acid (Sodium Lactate) is derived from soured milk.  It is a 3 carbon chain.  It has the soothing properties of milk and is known as an excellent humectant (is able to hold moisture).

• Malic Acid is derived from apples and is a 4 carbon chain.

• Tatoric Acid is derived from grapes and is a 5 carbon chain.

• Citric Acid is derived from fruits such as lemon and lime.  It is a 6 carbon chain.  

Beta Hydroxy Acids perform in much the same way as the AHA's.  They generally operate more in the epidermis layer of the skin and are used very effectively in acne treatment, as well as age management.

• Salicylic Acid can be found occuring naturally in some plants, including the leaves of wintergreen.  It is used in acne products for its antiseptic properties and its abilities to reduce sebaceous (oil) follicle blockages.  Salicylic Acid, together with Benzoyl Peroxide, are generally used for Acne 1 & 2 grade; as well as Acne 3 & 4 grade problematic skin.

• Retinol is the strongest derivative of Retinoic Acid (RetinA).  It is less irritating than RetinA and is generally better tolerated.  Retinol treats conditions of chronological aging such as wrinkles and fine lines.  It also treats dermatological disorders including acne, age spots and oily skin.  Retinol also aids in collagen synthesis.

• Hyaluronic Acid occurs naturally in the dermis.  It is a natural moisturizer and contains excellent water-binding properties.  When applied topically to the skin; it forms a protective film that gives instant smoothness to dry, rough skin.  It creates a wonderful protective "moisture barrier" on the surface of the skin.

ANTIOXIDANTS (Vitamins C & E)

Antioxidants help prevent the formation of free radicals.  Free radicals are molecules that are searching for other chemical substances with which to bond.  They can attack collagen fibres and living cells.  They change the cell nucleus thereby deteriorating the quality of newly formed skin cells.  Antioxidants assist in the formation of collagen and tissue regeneration. 

• Scientists say a human being is 15 years older in body than mental faculties.  This means you could look older than you feel.
• To calculate the optimal water intake for healthy skin; divide your weight in half and that is how many ounces of water you need daily.  Example:  one half of 130 lbs. is 65 ounces of water needed daily.  
• Don't forget that beautiful skin is more than just using the right products.  Other factors such as lifestyle, diet, exercise and hormone therapy affect the skin as well.  
• SPF's should be applied 30 minutes before exposure to the sun.  To calculate how long you can be in the sun and still be protected multiply the amount of SPF x 10 minutes.  (This is a safe estimate.  Some people say use SPF x 20 minutes.)  Example:  SPF 15 X l0 minutes = 150 minutes you can safely be exposed without "burning".  You must reapply the SPF if you go into the water though.